Birthday in Baltimore!!!

We really did make it to Baltimore! We were hoping to get here sooner, however heat, fatigue, weather and engine issues took their toll so we ended up taking a bit longer than we thought... But am getting ahead of myself.

We had a great day Saturday, getting close to Norfolk seeing osprey fledglings on almost every channel marker as we went along. We crossed the Currituck Sound, went up the North Landing River with no problems and went through the lovely tranquil (except for ski boats and PWC) Albermarle Norfolk canal and into the Elizabeth River to Portsmouth. The idea of going through our first lock with several other boats was kind of intimidating and the bridge and lock were only open going northbound on the hour with the lift bridge opening coordinated. We had just missed the opening! We decided to stop right there at the Atlantic Yacht Center in Portsmouth until Sunday morning. This was an unexpected treat as it was wicked hot and we could use the AC all night...hurrah.
The bridge and lock at sunset. Wind Spirit's reflection at the dock.

We were the only boat to go through at 7AM Sunday morning, and the Bridge and Lock Masters were extremely accommodating. We had no problem as it is only a 12 to 18 inch lift. Such a very gentle introduction to locking!

We went on through Portsmouth, and Norfolk, seeing an amazing number of cranes and huge naval vessels as we went along. We also had to go through quite a few lift bridges here.
Then we headed out through Hampton Roads passing a naval warship coming in with all guns manned, and finally into the Chesapeake. We went north and anchored in the East River in Mobjack Bay. Had a small windy front come through with no rain but the temperature dropped about 20 degrees. This was wonderful as it had been very hot all day, and when we went to turn on the generator it made a very loud noise so we had no power that night for refrigeration or air conditioning. This was the third Monday with engine issues...we hope it is the last Monday with engine issues. We both slept out in the cockpit and it was lovely and peaceful with a full moon and gentle breeze ruffling the surface of the water.

We were able to make an early start again the following morning and sailed up to Deltaville which we had visited in 2008 looking for a boat. We stayed in the Dozier Regatta Point Marina on Broad Creek. After touching the bottom coming in we found the deep channel and made it through fine. The marina was very convenient with wonderful amenities including a pool which we did enjoy and a courtesy car too! Deltaville is a yachting center so lots of repair people there and we were able to get the generator repaired. The repairman thought a jellyfish had been sucked against the water intake blocking it long enough to break the impeller. Bill had a good lesson in how to replace it. We ended up spending the day, did laundry, swam, relaxed and ran errands after the generator was repaired. We also enjoyed two beautiful sunsets.

The Doziers who own this marina write excellent guide books for cruisers which we haven't used (as had bought a different one). It is also the home of Captain Bob's guides to the ICW which we had used. We enjoyed meeting Jack Dozier.

The generator delay made things a bit tight getting to Baltimore for the Friday birthday party so we hurried along very early the next morning at 6 knots and hour with some sail support when the wind was right. The wind changed a lot as we headed north and sometimes sailing was feasible and sometimes not. The wind and waves were growing as we headed north. The waves were at 4-6 feet when we were about ready to stop. We sailed into the peaceful calm loveliness of the Solomons. What a wonderful place! We will spend more time there on our way back south and visit the museum and research center. Calm waters with homes along them and lots of boats and marinas. Anchoring is easy and convenient. We found a spot in the entrance of a bay with some breeze and enjoyed sparkling light on the water as well as a great sunset.


Tried to get an early start on Thursday AM as we had a long way to go! We needed fuel and the marinas didn't open until 8...or so, so we just waited. Rested and fueled we headed out just before 9. The wind was perfect to sail for a good while, and we were approaching Herring Bay. Bruce called on the cell phone to tell us there was a wicked front heading in the direction we were approaching, and he thought we should stop in Herring Bay or in one of the marinas there. We had seen the clouds building, but didn't know even from NOAA how severe it was. Just as we made it into the bay we were hit by a blast of 30 to 40 knot winds and then heavy rain. We just caught a corner of the storm. It was over quickly for us. Wind Spirit is very solid and handled it just fine. We decided, as it ended and we could see more clouds ahead of us that we would just head into the Herrington North Marina.

Bruce offered to drive down about an hour to get us and take us to the house, and he and Bill could come back Saturday and sail to Baltimore. So we made it for the birthday party on Friday! Pizza and cupcakes and ice cream and fun and games and a happy six year old! Have had a great few days with Bruce and Kelly and the boys.


Saturday Will and I drove Bruce and Bill down to the marina. They sailed Wind Spirit into Baltimore to the Anchorage Marina where we will be for about a month. Kelly and I met them and we all went out for dinner nearby. We hope to spend lots of time with Will and Andrew, and actually will sit for them starting Saturday when Bruce and Kelly go to Nicaragua. We will also get our visas for our trip to China next month. Hope to see some friends while we are here in DC, Jay and Lori, and Jean and Henry on the Eastern Shore too as well as have a sleep over with Will on the boat.

We just came back to the boat for a couple of days of work and reorganizing. May not blog too much while we are here, but will start again as we begin our trip south. Thanks so much for your interest and support as we continue our adventure.

Cypress and sounds and friends...

Well back in Southport we were able to get the fuel cleaned out of the tank...all 57 gallons of it, and the tanks refilled with fresh fuel. The Yanmar Diesel is now working perfectly. We really we needed to head north again and make some miles if we want to get to Baltimore for Will's birthday. We waved to our patient friends as we passed them, Dick on a boat heading out to Bald Head Island, and Kerrie on their dock on the ICW taking pictures as we trekked along past. They have promised to sail with us one of these days...maybe when we get more practice with this boat! Most of the afternoon we had the jib (big front sail) up though. We do hope they will join us for some sailing on the way south!

We anchored with some challenge in a very windy Mile Hammock Bay in Camp Lejeune, a US Marine base where they were doing landing craft drills. We saw lots of military action on the water and helicopters in the air. We had never been exposed to this type of activity before. Bill was fascinated and had the binoculars out all the time we were there. They were doing practice training and maneuvers and had British troops there too. Didn't take any pictures!

We started a little late the next morning to catch the tide and the lift bridge at Onslow Beach following another boat Adventurous a large motor cruiser. The first part of the trip was lovely before we got to Swansboro, and we had the jib out as we had done the day before. The winds got to be a bit much and too challenging as the ICW wandered... so no more jib. We crossed the Bogue sound in a narrow channel and rough waters...not pleasant at all, but made it safely to Beaufort NC which is pronounced "Bofurt". Someone told us the difference between Beaufort SC and Beaufort NC is that they did not speak French in Beaufort SC which is our favorite city. We found a pleasant anchorage in Town Creek. We were very tired. That was probably our least favorite day of the entire trip so far.

Next morning we were going into downtown Beaufort and the dinghy engine would not idle! Another issue to deal with as we didn't want to continue without it working. We stayed another night, then were able to take it in to be repaired.

We moved into Town Creek Marina as they had a car and we could deliver and pick up the engine. Bill rowed the dinghy for the first time in wind and current. The engine was repaired, and needs to have the fuel bled out if we are not going to use it for several days. Another learning experience!

We left Beaufort after picking up the engine and a few groceries with the courtesy car, and doing a load of laundry. Marinas mean internet too!

We were able to get to Broad Creek, a lovely spot past Oriental, and anchored fine in quite shallow water. There were LOTs of dolphins dancing all around and very close to the boat as we went in. It was a lovely quiet evening with a beautiful sunset.

We had no phone service for 2+ days! I abhor ATT. We recently changed from Verizon and the service has been very poor to none most of the trip.

Up early with the reward of a spectacular sunrise.
On the way out of Broad Creek ...you guessed it or maybe not... we went aground. We called Boat US but some friendly shrimp fishermen came over, and two of the boats were easily able to get us free very quickly into 6 feet of water. That was the deep water there so there was not much room for error with our 5 foot draft!! Yours truly was behind the wheel this time. Bill said very little. Don't believe anyone who says that navigating the ICW is easy.

The rest of the day was wonderful but a long one. We cruised the Neuse River, Pamlico River, Pungo River and Pungo River-Alligator River Canal. Lots and lots of marsh and cypress trees alive and dead all along the rivers. We are not sure why so many are dead! We saw five Bald Eagles along the canal! They were wonderfully huge and distinctive. One eagle caught a fish right in front of the boat! Have seen turtles sunning and many nests of Osprey. In one, the almost grown chicks were flapping their wings and lifting up above the nest and then lowering over and over. PT for baby hawks!
We anchored in wide open Alligator River after we came out of the narrow canal in a bit of wind but deeper water where we felt comfortable. All these canals and rivers keep us inshore and get us past the Outer Banks in the Atlantic.

Next morning we crossed the Albermarle Sound in lovely winds right on our nose. Saw this tug from a distance and took a while to figure out what it was.

When you can sail and the waters are deep enough the wind doesn't cooperate. We have a new cooling trick during the day when we are very hot. Put on the swim suits and use the shower in the cockpit to wet down and cool off. It works very well to keep us comfortable. Also keep a wet t-shirt on to keep out of the sun has been working well too.
We stayed 2 nights at Midway Marina in Coinjock, NC. Easy docking ...our first time at fixed docks instead of floating docks. There is very little tide here and just a little current. What a treat to have such a gentle place to dock and a swimming pool too! Christine said it has been a while since we have fully submerged our bodies and not just showered and she is right.
Yesterday my Atlanta friend Laura, Sophia and Ben and David, who have been at Corolla on the Outer Banks this week, came to spend the afternoon with us on the boat! The kids had fun exploring the boat, and going with Bill on a dinghy ride. After lunch we were able to motor with them back up the canal and river. Just past the Coinjock bridge we saw another Bald Eagle! Laura spotted it and both kids saw it too. That was the frosting on the cake this afternoon. We came back and had a quick swim before they all had to leave. It was such fun to have them visit.

Bill and I had dinner out last night at Crabbies and it was delicious! The best seafood in Coinjock and we tried both places! Think is is the best I have had for a long time! There was musical entertainment tonight at Crabbies! Two doctors were playing and they were good. They call themselves "The Paradox". Midway Marina is a bit rustic, but we loved being here and having the pool too in this heat.

Unique things in Coinjock: A group of older men cruised by us on their personal water craft and pulled into the marina. We saw them later at the pool...then, when we went to eat they started to come into the restaurant and most had on t- shirts with "Bay Dogs" on the back. Guess the dogs cruise the waterways around here.

On the way back to the boat we saw a man on another PWC and did see a black dog on the front with him. It was a good sized poodle. He had another one on the other side and he slowly cruised off with both of them barking!

Talked to my brother last night, and sounds like all is well with them in Sutton, QC.

Best news we've had today though is that Bill's brother John in California had clear scans this week after his surgery and radiation for Melanoma. Thank you and keep on praying they stay that way forever!

We have stopped today at another marina as it is very hot and we wanted the AC on all night. We are just south of the locks at Great Banks, and will deal with that in the morning. They will raise us a foot in the lock which is mainly, so we have been told, to keep the Albermarle Chesapeake Canal from getting too brackish. Tomorrow will be our first time through locks. Something new all the time.

Meanwhile back in Southport...

It is amazing trip to see the east coast from the water at 5 knots an hour! A very special part of the Intracoastal Waterway is the Waccamaw River so we decided after much discussion to motor inside so we could see it. We also wanted to go by the beach Islands in NC where we still have some property. It was truly worth the time to do this lovely trip. The river is wide and deep all the way, and such a very different river than we have been on before. There is a gradual shift from wide open space along the shore to deep swampy terrain with wonderful cypress trees.














Osprey nest all the way along and were feeding babies we could even hear crying over the engine and when we stopped. We anchored in an oxbow along the way overnight which was still and tranquil. The water is very brown and was a mirror as we had our morning coffee on deck. The reflections as we went along were spectacular, smooth and then rippled with the gentle wake.



We transitioned out of this section to the canals in Myrtle Beach and North Myrtle Beach with intersting homes and huge complexes such as Grand Dunes and Barefoot Landings. They both have wonderful new huge marinas. We didn't stop but were able to use their internet as we went by... thanks. We passed Little River and the harbor we have stayed as we continued on the way to the Beach Islands in North Carolina.




We came to the Sunset Island Pontoon Bridge over the ICW just after 2 PM. We could see it opened, but just couldn't reach it in time. It only opens on the hour and NOT in extreme low tide. We knew the tide was going out, but we still had 3 hours until it was at low. The Bridgemaster told us we had to wait an hour so we set the anchor and relaxed. Pulled it up and headed toward the bridge which SLOWLY opened. No one went through until they blew a loud siren and then we all took turns going through. When it closed they announced in a US Coast Guard Advisory that it would not re-open until at least 6PM due to the extreme low tides! Lucky we got through. The waterway through these islands is particularly interesting for us as we have spent a lot of time here on summer vacations and still have property on the Shallot River which has a dock on the ICW.
It was a delight for us to finally go through on the water even though it wasn't deep enough to stop. The channel had been dredged in April so we had adequate depths along the way at the inlets where it shoals all the time but even so there were places we just squeaked through. The afternoon was fun as we saw lots of familiar sights including a house we had rented with all our kids and my parents a few years ago right on the end of Oak Island, and the lighthouses at Ft. Caswell and in the distance on Bald Head Island. We stopped at South Harbor Marina for the night, an unexpected treat.

In the AM we left very early as we were going to Figure Eight Island past Wilmington and Wrightsville Beach to visit some long-time friends. As we headed up the Cape Fear River we were in the middle of a rainstorm . The winds were not bad, but there was lightning. The engine just stopped suddenly as we were at a narrow part with restricted water on one side (an armament depot) and very shallow water on the other. We put up the staysail (the small one in front) and the jib (the big one in front) and tried to sail back into the channel that the current was pushing us out of into the shallows. That tactic didn't work so we dropped anchor in 3.5 feet and called Tow Boat US. They came as the rains stopped and brought us back to Southport Marina so we could figure out why the engine stopped. Well we did! Rain water running down the scuppers will go right into the fuel tank if the lid is left off! Did I mention we had fueled at South Harbor Marina?? This is another adventure in sailing on Wind Spirit, and another hard lesson learned, which we think might be somewhat expensive.

Our friends joined us for dinner here last night at Fishy Fishy...yummy. Whenever they are able to finish up draining the fuel tanks so we can refuel, we will be on our way north again. Hopefully we will still be able to stop at Figure Eight tonight. In the meantime the laundry is done.

Sailing...

Well. no pictures today, but wanted to do an update. We finally cast off the lines at Skull Creek Marina on Thursday around 10 AM, and motored to Morgan Island in the St. Helena sound north of Beaufort and Hilton Head. We anchored in the Morgan Back Creek. A boat stopped by to tell us the federal gov't had a program where they were introducing monkeys to one of the islands, but we decided not to lower the dinghy and go exploring as it was too close to dark... an interesting visit for another time.

We left early Friday AM and sailed outside to Charleston. Winds were good for about 5-6 hours, and sailing was relaxing. We did have to do some motoring towards the late afternoon which was bumpy. We went into the ICW behind Ft Moultrie and were planning to anchor near Isle of Palms, but it was too shallow so we went on to Deewees Creek. It was an interesting place watching the ferry, the seados, fishing boats,and parasailors. There were lots of least terns diving all around us too.

We took the ICW north in the AM. stopping at Minum Creek overnight. Had two wicked thunder storms during the night but we were cosy and dry and safe inside. Today we came on to Georgetown and are tied up at Hazzard Marina so we can catch up with our lives and pay some bills.
Will maybe sail up the outside to Wilmington or Southport tomorrow or Tuesday depending on the winds. Feels great to be going again. Thanks for all your emails and support as we continue our adventures.

Back again...

We are back on Wind Spirit after two significant events. The first was a fun trip to California where we had a lovely visit with all Bill's family, his Mother who is as feisty as ever, all the brothers and

sisters-in -law, their families, and nephews and delightful girl friends.

We were specifically happy to see Bill's younger brother, John who is feeling better after a rough time with surgery and radiation treatment for melanoma. It was a treat to see him starting to get his joie de vivre and energy back after a long haul!

We also attended the lovely wedding of our great nephew Josh and his lovely bride Rachel in Riverside, and had a family dinner at John and Sally's the following day. It was a treat to see everyone. Thanks for the birthday celebration which did preempt Fathers Day ...sorry all of you Dads in the family, but hope you you enjoyed the wonderful cake.

The second event after we went back to Atlanta, and met my brother Ray at the airport was moving my mother back to Canada. The 23rd we had packers in to finish packing mother's apartment. They loaded the rental truck for us the following day, and Ray drove the truck up to Quebec where Mother will now be living full time with he and Carla. We hope she will be very happy in her new place with them and that all goes well for everyone with the transition.


We have been back on Wind Spirit now for 5 days and had the great pleasure of having Frances and Will with us for a couple of days. This was a first for them to stay on a sailboat and we hope they will come back for a longer stay next time. We had some sun and some rain...more rain than we wanted but we need rain too. We did do some sailing and motoring down toward Harbor Town and Dafuskie Island as well as exploring Beaufort with a car tour CD. Frances and I had hours of uninterupted visiting which was fun as we are used to visiting in quick bits between patients. Retirement is terrific when you can spend time with good friends!





We heard from Christine today that she will be here tomorrow for a couple of days and to see the fireworks with us. We will have a front row seat as they are setting them off from a barge on the river close to us. Hoping the wind is blowing away from the boat. We will miss Mark!

In the mean time lovely sunsets, interesting people, boat work... always, dolphins, birds, otter and sting rays to watch.

Our plans are to head north on Tuesday if the weather is good we will go outside, and if not, inside on the ICW. Will keep you posted as we start another adventure.

Living aboard Wind Spirit...

We have spent most of the last 2 months aboard Wind Spirit and are generally very comfortable in our condo on the water. I am finally getting back to writing on this blog again. For most of May and early June we were dockside at Port Royal Landings Marina. We had a pleasant time and it was actually very relaxing. Had dinner with Beth and Helen one rainy evening on the boat while they were at Fripp. Somehow didn't get any pictures.

Joan our neighbor came down for 4 days over Memorial day. We had some great sailing weather while she was with us. Had dinner out at 11th Street Dockside in Port Royal.
While Joan was there we had a bit too much excitement as there was a PAM PAM call ( just under a MAY DAY level) that someone was in the water. The Coast guard finally canceled the emergency call pending further investigation, but we saw helicopters out searching. Also saw a boat aground which brought back some memories for Bill and I. When we came into the dock the current caught us turning us perpendicular to the dock. It took some help to just swing the stern around and tie up safely. We were a little bumped but mostly humbled by the experience. Just as we were tied up another large motor boat came rushing in with the current, totally lost control and crashed into us. Joan had ducked and hidden her face. Too much going on all at once.. Wind Spirit had a few scratches we discovered later but more importantly Howard, the captain, had seriously cut his thumb trying to fend off from our anchor and boat.

He docked on the outside dock, and Bill went over and helped tied up and closed up his boat so they could get him to the hospital for stitches. We met them later, and they came for drinks on the boat. A bottle of McCallen also changed hands. Thanks Meaux and Howard. Hope the hand is better soon. Interesting ways we meet folks. Rather do that with less trauma for everyone however!

Friends and fellow sailors at the Port Royal Marina have been so helpful and patient answering Bill’s million questions and helping learn to do boat work including cleaning filter systems on board, helping repair the bilge pumps, and giving him suggestions when docking. The staff there is also amazingly supportive. We are so appreciative and do hope to go back there and keep it as our home Marina.

Lots of dolphin all around when we go sailing and even around the docks. Green backed herons wake me up every morning with their chortle-like cry. The marshes are full of oyster catchers, egrets and snowy egrets with bright yellow feet, great blue herons, little blue herons, and lots I can't id yet.


Bill and Nancy were with us for a few days the first week of June. Such fun sharing the boat with these sailing buddies. We spent a day in Beaufort which is such a lovely city and so picturesque. We love to spend time there. We toured the Verdier Museum on Bay street and drove around The Point. This city was a Union stronghold during the War between the States and was left virtually intact so has lovely old antebellum homes. We sailed over to Hilton Head with Nancy and Bill and had a wonderful day on the boat. Best sailing yet! Had dinner at Hudson’s the oldest seafood restaurant on Hilton Head.

We have had a week at Hilton Head at Skull Creek Marina in the Hilton Head Plantation. The Dockmaster, Granville has been great. But we do miss PRLM. Favorite restaurant there is Skull Creek Dockside!

Bruce and Kelly and the Will and Andrew have been at a beach house in Sea Pines this week and next with all her family including cousins Lanie, Reid and Emma. We visited, and they spent some time on the boat with us. Bill went fishing with Kelly's Dad, Fred, Bruce and Kelly. Kelly was the star fisher woman that day pulling in a 39 pound King Mackerel. Can't download the pictures this time''have tried!! They said it was delicious eating when Bruce cooked it on the grill.
Bruce and Will spent an afternoon sailing with us. Will loved it and we were so pleased to have them with us. The kids loved the dinghy ride too!




































Bob and Anne Chandler were also in Hilton head last week with family, and had their first sailing experience with us on Wind Spirit in Port Royal Sound. They said it was their maiden voyage. We loved having them aboard for a day and caught up with their family news. Hope they will come with us again. Think the pictures of them were all on Anne's camera!

Christine and Mark came on Thursday and stayed until yesterday when we all headed home. Had some great sailing and wonderful meals out and with Kelly’s family at the beach house. It was super hot all the time they were there in the high 90's. Thanks goodness we have AC on the boat. It sounds crazy, but with the humidity is necessary and has kept us very comfortable. We didn’t go looking for AC on a boat but it came with it along with a great heater . We have been grateful for both in the last 6 months.

Our favorite meal for this month was Frogmore Stew which we have made twice and loved it. Local shrimp are in season and are delicious!

We just love filling the boat with friends and family! Such fun to share our adventure.



Enjoy hearing from all of you who are following this retirement journey. Our plan is to return to the boat after a couple of weeks at home, and then after the 4th will head north.

We are in the process of moving Mother to Canada to live with my brother and his wife. Will write more later. Please keep in touch.