The trip down the ICW was beautiful but frustrating as we got to Jupiter with all the bridges. We had to wait 30 minutes for 2 of them and finally got through the last one on this trip down. We were in Lake Worth at West Palm Beach and anchored just south of the Lake Worth Inlet. We had just missed a weather window across to the Bahamas but still had a few things to do. Bill ventured out in the dinghy Wednesday, and found a great boat store. He finally bought a new radio for below so that was an accomplishment. He installed it and also replaced the pump on the aft head…a yucky, but necessary job.
We felt ready to go. Friday had been suggested, but the winds and waves were stronger and bigger than I was comfortable with so we waited until Saturday. We stowed the dinghy and motor on board. We fueled and got water and mailed some things. We had a good dinner with leftovers for the night after the crossing and went to bed early. Didn’t sleep too well and were up at 4 AM . We left the inlet at 4:40 AM and out to sea we went. Weird sailing/motoring at night but the channel out was well marked and the GPS told us where we were and where we needed to go. Winds were light Stars and a crescent moon were lighting our way.
Sunrise on the Atlantic.
We could see one cruise ship which appeared to be at anchor and lights which were smaller boats apparently going our way. The sky began to slowly lighten and we knew by the waves that we were in the gulf stream. When the sun came up there were 3 boats going our way and then we were in the shipping lane. No problems but we saw and crossed paths with 6 big freighter ships during the day. The wind was light and the sea was just rolling a little. Winds were so light we had to motor almost all the way to Bill’s disappointment. We had the sails up for 2-3 hours but finally took them down as they were flopping around. The trip was comfortable and easy, just long. We got to a way point at the edge of the Banks called Memory Rock, a very small rock with a light post on it about 2:45 PM.
Navy blue of the Gulf Stream.
The water in the gulf stream was an amazing navy blue wonderful contrast to the white foam and spray from the boat. We saw lots of Portuguese Man of War with their sails up blowing in the wind. We also saw a pod of Pilot Whales resting on the surface just behind us. That was exciting! We heard them breathing and then they disappeared. Their heads and fins are very distinctive. When I read about them the males can get up to 5000 pounds. Was hoping they kept on going north as we were headed east.
The captain Logging each hour.Just after we passed Memory rock the water color began to change from navy blue to green and the water became very shallow 10 to 20 feet and we could see the bottom. It was a big change from the extremely deep…not registering on the depth meter deep… Gulf Stream. We could see grass on the bottom and then huge starfish. The color was a gorgeous turquoise green and has stayed that color with variations ever since. We pressed on to a small Cay for a sheltered anchorage called Mangrove Cay. We put up the yellow quarantine flag and will not take it down until we check in with customs and pay our cruising fee of $300.00 dollars which includes the leaving tax and a fishing license for the boat. Then will put up the Bahamas flag.
We spend a bit of a bouncy night but slept in and a had lazy morning. We left about 10:30 and had a totally amazing day of sailing. Bill said it was the best day he had ever had sailing. Steady winds, wonderful blue water, rarely another boat in sight and off we went. We sailed to Great Sale Cay, and anchored in time for a libation on the deck while we watched the sunset and celebrated Bill’s best sailing day ever!
The happy Captain!Bill checked the oil, changed the water filter in the galley sink we had a yummy dinner and bread pudding for dessert to use up some bread we didn’t like in sandwiches. A quiet evening as we have no TV, no Internet and no phone service here yet. We are hoping to use SKYPE and local internet to keep in touch and maybe a simm card for my phone. Will keep you posted on the blog too. Lots of time to read and study the charts and plan where we are going tomorrow.
Up at 7 to listen to radio weather report which we couldn’t get. Did get a local one which confirmed what we had heard winds from the south east and up to 20 knots. We have the main and the stay sail up but we are headed into the wind right now to Spanish Cay and maybe Green Turtle Cay. Hoping to check in at Spanish Cay. Sunny day and lovely. Some rain due in Tuesday so will see how that goes. Having fun! Bill is in 7th heaven! Sailing in the Bahamas!
Well to continue since we still don’t have internet (Bill is working on that as I write this.) we did not stop at Spanish Cay as it is now a private island and they charged an extra $50.00 just to check in if you are not staying in a slip at throe marina. We anchored again after another amazing day of sailing at Crab Cay (there are several Crab Cays, but this one is on the end of Little Abaco island. A bit bouncy again. Not sure how we will do in a still anchorage. We did not get away on Tuesday AM until 9:45…a bit late. We did get a partial weather report saying a North Easter was coming in with big winds.
and to continue on Friday...
We sailed south to Green Turtle Cay where we had thought we would check in and so we did. It was a process. First we anchored near the government dock, lowered the dinghy, gathered all the paperwork as only the Captain is supposed to go to shore to sign in with customs. Bill decided to row in as it was very bouncy and unprotected. He was able to land on the beach and pull up the dinghy as the dinghy dock was a bit scary, looking high with old wooden ladders and waves breaking against it. Off he went to town while I chilled and watched other boats bounce by in the rough sea.
We had a ceremonious raising of the flag when Bill came back. We stayed at the anchorage until after 4 until the tide was high enough for us to get into White Sound. We had made a reservation not understanding that the location we had made the reservation was in Black Sound. We were so tired by that point we just dropped anchor where we were. We ended up spending a few hours sitting on the bottom at low tide that night but no harm done and we floated off as the tide came in a bit. We moved in the morning to a deeper location. We had a great day with Pat and Craig who had been anchored next to us, renting a golf cart and exploring all over the island, grocery shops, gift shops, the telephone company, the post office, cemetery, Memorial Park, had lunch out at the Wrecking Tree, found several beaches and a place called Pineapples with good Rum Punch. Even had dinner out!
The town is charming with old buildings on narrow streets. There is a long history here and we talked to a woman in the gift shop who is 8th generation here. The loyalists came here after the American revolution from the Carolinas.
Next day Thursday was still windy and after another few hours wandering on the Golf cart as we had it 24 hours, we decided to check out the Marina and did come in. Silver Girl is here too and Legacy . We have tag teamed with Silver Girl since Savannah you may remember, and their friend Legacy we were next to in St Augustine. It is a small world.
Bluff House Marina is very nice with great amenities although it has been too cool for the lovely pool. We walked on the beach over the ridge on the Sea of Abaco today and then have been doing a few boat chores like patching the dinghy that caught on a nail on the dock when we had dinner here. Also have been working on this blog!! Bill is doing laundry and am sure at Happy Hour as I try to finish this up.
We will be here until Monday when the wind lets up enough for us to go through Whale Cut and south to Marsh Harbour. Will take the next weather window after that, and go on the Eluthera. We are heading to Georgetown to fly out to our nephew's wedding in California the end of the month!We so appreciate so many of you following this adventure on SPOT and on this Blog. We miss our friends and family so please keep in touch. All is well.
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